Paper Heart Doily in Irish crochet

Here it is. Finaly. My completed Paper Heart Doily. I'm glad to get it published if only to, at long last, move on to something new. I made some mistakes, as you can see, but I adjusted the pattern. Because of the immense time it took to finish this piece, I'm not going to re-do it at this time. I fixed the pattern so that yours, however, will turn out perfect. If you haven't already, first complete the motifs from the following links:

Nine Heart Motif

Mesh Heart Motif

Big/Little Hearts

Next, make  paper copy of the following pattern:

You'll have to adjust the size until it fits your motifs. I don't know how else to work this. I created PDF files, but apparently they aren't compatible with blogger. Only the solid lines are exact. The dotted lines are just an estimate, as each motif will very slightly. It's OK if the Big/Little hearts hang over a bit. Cut a piece of frabic-any fabric- to fit your paper pattern. Arrange your motifs accordingly and sew them right side up to the pattern AND fabric with  basting stitches (large stitches you can easily cut and pull out later). Below is an example of what the finished piece looks like before being cut away from the pattern.

If you trace your pattern, don't use pencil. That's what all the brown smudging is from. Next, you will be adding a row of chain stitches around the outer edge of your pattern. Sew the chain to the pattern as you work, beginning at the tip of heart ans continuing counter clock wise. Join with a slip stitch to first chain but do not end off. Now you will begin working the ground. Using the directions that follow, chain stitch, attach to the underneath of the motif, not the side, and cover the chain stitches with single crochet stitches. Don't attach to the small ch 3 loops of the motifs, but instead to the back side of the sc's on the padded cord. Because we all crochet in varying degrees of tightness, I felt it would be pointless to give the ground pattern in the exact number of  stitches and instead thought it better to just show the direction of work. When you make your ch stitches, keep in mind that they will stretch when covered with sc's, so make them shorter than necessary. This will take a little trial on your part. Look at the above picture and notice how on the top two bumps of the heart I let the outer chain pull down a little thinking it would pull back when I worked the border. It did not. My finished piece suffers because of this mistake, as you can see. Be sure not to make it yourself.

The following directions are blown up and broken down into steps. I hope this makes it easier. Again, sorry they are not PDF's.



Step 1





Step 2



Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Step 7

Step 8



I hope that all makes sense. If not let me know - I'll try to answer any questions. Don't end off. You should be at the tip of the heart again                                                                                                                                                                                             

BORDER

 

Add in 6 strands of padded cord. (See Nine Heart Motif for detailed instruction.) Continuing around heart, work sc over pc to fill in each space between the ground work. Pull or loosen pc as you work to get the shape desired. Be sure to keep your work as even as possible on each side. You don't want a lot of close sc's on one side as compared to the other. Join working thread with sl st in 1st sc. End off pc. Continue with working thread only. Ch 1, sc in back loop only of same sc as join and in the next 15 sc. Ch 6, Catch back with sl st in 6th sc from hook. 13 sc on ch 6. Sc in back loop of next 5 sc. Turn work. ( Ch 2, sk sc, dc in next sc) 6 times. Ch 2, sc in 5th sc from ch 6 loop.Turn work. [ 3 sc, Picot (ch 5, sc in last sc), 1 sc] in next 6 ch 2 space. 4 sc in last ch 2 space.* 1 sc in back loops only of next 12 sc. Ch 6, catch back with sl st in 6th sc from hook. 13 sc on ch 6. sc in back loop only of next 5 sc. Turn work. ( ch 2, Sk next sc. dc in next sc ) 6 times.  Ch 2, sc in 5th sc from ch 6 loop. Turn work. 4 sc in 1st ch 2 space. ( 3sc, picot, 1 sc) in next 5 ch 2 spaces. 4 sc in last ch 2 space.* Repeat * to * around until you come to the corner between the 2 humps of the heart, and there's only enough space for another whole scallop. Continue last scallop as usual except in the last ch 2 space omit 4 sc, for 3sc, picot 1sc. Sc in back loops of remaining sc until you reach the center. Work the same amount of sc's just worked to climb out the other side. Work first scallop as usual, except omit the 4 sc in the 1st ch 2 space for 3sc, picot, 1 sc. Then continue * to * around until you reach the point of the heart. On the last scallop worked on the left side, make sure to omit the last 4 sc in ch 2 space, for 3sc, picot, 1 sc. I had 19  scallops on one side and 18 on the other, due to the mistakes in my original pattern and the fact that I worked the pc on the right side a little tighter than on the left. But, you won't have this problem!  To work the final scallop, Sc in back loops only of remaining sc's. Should be around 5. Join with sl st to 1st sc. Sl st in next 3 sc. Ch 6, catch back with sl st in 6th sc from hook (3rd sc from the last sc worked. 3sc, ch 2, 3sc on ch 6. Sl st in next sc and sl st in next 2 sc on 1st scallop. Turn work.Ch 2, dc in 2nd sc of last 3sc on ch 6. Ch 3, tr in ch 2 space. Ch 3, dc in 2nd sc of next 3sc. ch 2, sl st in 2nd sc from hook, on the last scallop, just above the last picot. Turn work. (3sc, picot, 1 sc) in next 2 ch spaces. Sc in tr, picot. (3 sc, picot, 1 sc) in last 2 ch spaces.  End off.

Carefully cut finished piece away from the pattern by clipping the basting stitches from the back side. You will probably need to wash your work -hand wash! Lay it out to dry. Iron by laying face down and laying a damp cloth on top. Good luck!

Until next time.