Saturday, February 11, 2012

Mesh Heart Motif in Irish Crochet

Here is the next step in my paper doily heart doily. This was a challenge. It never looked quite right and I ended up working it three different ways before I liked the result. Now I'm in a crunch to finish by Valentine's Day. What this means is you might be stuck with heart patterns even after the 14th, because I still have another idea floating around in my head.

Before we get started I have a great find to share with you. I recently read a great book and this author is one of those to put on your favorite author lists. You know how there are good books and then there are awesome books? This is one of the latter. I read it a lot, and true gems only come along once in awhile.I love it when someone turns me on to a good book, so I'm returning the favor. You'll love this, I promise. It's called 'The Aureate Spectacles' and the best part is, the author is releasing the first five chapters for free, here http://rhizomeseries.blogspot.com . So check it out!

If you are only working this pattern, you may wish to refer to my Nine Heart Motif pattern for some tips and advice on working Irish Crochet. I don't have the patience to repeat them here. In fact my patience leaves so much to be desired,  I'm amazed I like to crochet at all.

I would like to mention a couple more tips I learned:

Irish Crochet is different then other crochet methods. It has a lot more artistic license. You're not counting rows. It isn't as important to get exact numbers of stitches. It's more important for that the end result to look accurate, then actually be accurate. If your work is bunching, or seems to loose, it's OK to add or delete
extra stitches in order for your work to lay flat. In fact, it's usually necessary because crochet work naturally differs from one worker to another. Remember, you're creating art - not a sweater that has to align, or an afghan that needs to be square- crochet outside the box!

Irish Crochet gets it shape from the padded cord. Pull it tighter to curve, looser to lay straight. As you work, continue to pull or relax the padded to cord to get the shape you want. I manipulated the padded cord (pc) constantly to get the result I desired. The pc should never show through your stitches. You may have to adjust your stitches to always cover the cord.



Working thread is DMC Cordonnet # 100. The padded cord is DMC Cordonnet # 10. I used size 14 steel hook.

Step 1). Ch 4, 1 sc in 1st ch, (ch 3, 1 sc in same ch ) twice.

Step 2). Ch 3, 1 sc in 1st ch 3 space, ch 3, 1 sc in same space. ( Ch 3, 1 sc in next ch 3 space, ch 3 i sc in same space ) twice.

Step 3). (Ch 3, 1 sc in next ch 3 space. Ch 3, sc, ch 3 sc in next ch 3 space) 3 times.

Step 4). [(Ch3, sc in next ch 3 space) twice. Ch 3, sc, ch 3, scin next ch 3 space] 3 times.

Step 5). [(Ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space) 3 times. Ch 3, sc, ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space] 3 times.

Step 6). [(Ch 3, sc in  next ch 3 space) 4 times. Ch 3, sc, ch3, sc in next ch 3 space] 3 times.

Step 7). [(Ch 3, sc in  next ch 3 space) 5 times. Ch 3, sc, ch3, sc in next ch 3 space] 3 times.

Step 8). [(Ch 3, sc in  next ch 3 space) 6 times. Ch 3, sc, ch3, sc in next ch 3 space] 3 times.

Step 9). [(Ch 3, sc in  next ch 3 space) 7 times. Ch 3, sc, ch3, sc in next ch 3 space] 3 times.

Step 10).[ (Ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space) 8 times. *Ch 3, sc, ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space.* ( ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space) 4 times. Turn, sc in same ch 3 space. (Ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space) 3 times. Repeat * to *. (Ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space) 9 times.  Repeat * to *.] twice.

Step 11). [(Ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space) 15 times. Turn. Sc in same ch 3 space. ( Ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space) 15 times. Ch 3, sc, ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space.] Twice.

Step 12).  Turn. (Sl st in same ch 3 loop) twice, so that you are in the middle of the ch 3 space at tip of heart. Join 6 strand of pc w/ sl st (see Nine Heart Motif for more details if necessary). Ch 1, 2 sc over pc and in ch 3 sp at point of heart. (Working over pc, 6 sc in next ch 3 space) 15 times. (4 sc in next ch 3 space) twice. (3 sc in next ch 3 space) 4 times. (4 sc in next ch 3 space) twice. (6 sc in next ch 3 space) 15 times. 3 sc in same space as first 2 sc. Join w/ sl st in 1st sc. Drop pc. (see pattern notes)

Step 13). Turn. Work on Right side of work. With working thread only, sl st in back loop of next sc. Ch 3, working in back loops only, tr in same sc. (2 tr in next sc) twice. Tr in next sc around until you reach the corner of the heart. At the group of 4 spaces with 3 sc each, a total of 12 sc, 8 trtog  in 1st sc, sk 4 sc, and tr in last 4 sc. (see patten notes).Continue working 1 tr in each sc around until last 2 sc. (2 tr in next sc) twice. 1 tr in same sc as beginning ch 3 and 1st tr. Join w/ sl st in top of ch 3.

Step 14). Turn. Working on wrong side of work, Pick up pc, and work 1 sc over pc and in each sc around. Join w/ sl st to 1st sc. End off. weave in ends.

Step 15). Continue work on wrong side. Join working thread in 31st sc from tip. (Sc in next sc) twice. Ch 14, sk 14 sc, (sc in next sc) 3 times. (Ch 10. sk 7 sc, sc in next 3 sc) 10 times. Ch 14, sk 14, sc in next sc. Turn work. Join 6 strands of pc with sl st in next sc.

Step 16). working on right side of work, ch 1, 29 sc over pc in ch 14 space. Drop pc. sk sc, sc in middle sc*, sk sc. (pick up pc, 20 sc in next ch 10 space. Drop pc, sc in middle sc) 10 times. 29 sc in next ch 14 space. sc in 1st sc of step 14. End off, Weave in ends. (See pattern notes).

*(When working sc in middle sc, it helped me to actually work sc in the sc underneath from previous step 14.)

Step 17). Re-attach working thread to right side of heart, sl st in last sc of step 16. You are working on right side of work. *(Ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in back loop of next sc) 10 times. * Ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in center sc.[(Ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in back loop of next sc) 6 times. Ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in middle sc] 10 times. Repeat * to *. End off. Weave in end.

Pattern Notes

8trtog (8 treble together). yo twice,* insert hook in next sc, draw up a loop, (yo, draw through 2 loops on hook) twice*. Repeat * through* 3 more times. Skip 4 sc. Repeat * through * 4 more times. Yo and draw through all loops on hook.

On step 17 you don't have to end off working thread and re-attach to other side. You may turn work and work the rest of the step from the wrong side of the work. It's just my personal preference that the ch 3 loops face the right side up on the right side of work.

On step 12, when you drop pc, and pick it up again on step 14 you leave a small section of unworked pc laying across  step 13 row of trs. It's hidden just fine unless the work is back lit from behind. I thought this motif would look pretty worked in duplicates and tied together to form a swag. In this, or any other similar case, You may wish to end off pc, weave in and re-attach new pc. See picture below.

I can't wait to try Irish crochet, and the wondrous world of padded cord possibilities on a intricate snowflake. But, not today. Until next time.


As always, I retain all rights to my patterns.You can do whatever you like with what you make from my patterns, but you can't sell or reproduce my patterns. I try hard to ensure accuracy, but since I look at my hands when I'm typing and not what I'm typing...please, be forgiving! If there are any mistakes, let me know and I'll get them fixed

2 comments:

  1. You do a wonderful job! I love Irish Crochet but have a hard enough time with #20, anything smaller than that I can't crochet with it. #10 and #3 are the ones I most use when using thread and they are really too big to use with Irish Crochet.

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    1. I have worked the same snowflake patterns in both size 10 and size 30 thread. They both turned out pretty in different ways. I think you could use size 10 for your working thread and 3 for your padded cord and be satisfied with the result.

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