Paper Heart Doily in Irish crochet

Here it is. Finaly. My completed Paper Heart Doily. I'm glad to get it published if only to, at long last, move on to something new. I made some mistakes, as you can see, but I adjusted the pattern. Because of the immense time it took to finish this piece, I'm not going to re-do it at this time. I fixed the pattern so that yours, however, will turn out perfect. If you haven't already, first complete the motifs from the following links:

Nine Heart Motif

Mesh Heart Motif

Big/Little Hearts

Next, make  paper copy of the following pattern:

You'll have to adjust the size until it fits your motifs. I don't know how else to work this. I created PDF files, but apparently they aren't compatible with blogger. Only the solid lines are exact. The dotted lines are just an estimate, as each motif will very slightly. It's OK if the Big/Little hearts hang over a bit. Cut a piece of frabic-any fabric- to fit your paper pattern. Arrange your motifs accordingly and sew them right side up to the pattern AND fabric with  basting stitches (large stitches you can easily cut and pull out later). Below is an example of what the finished piece looks like before being cut away from the pattern.

If you trace your pattern, don't use pencil. That's what all the brown smudging is from. Next, you will be adding a row of chain stitches around the outer edge of your pattern. Sew the chain to the pattern as you work, beginning at the tip of heart ans continuing counter clock wise. Join with a slip stitch to first chain but do not end off. Now you will begin working the ground. Using the directions that follow, chain stitch, attach to the underneath of the motif, not the side, and cover the chain stitches with single crochet stitches. Don't attach to the small ch 3 loops of the motifs, but instead to the back side of the sc's on the padded cord. Because we all crochet in varying degrees of tightness, I felt it would be pointless to give the ground pattern in the exact number of  stitches and instead thought it better to just show the direction of work. When you make your ch stitches, keep in mind that they will stretch when covered with sc's, so make them shorter than necessary. This will take a little trial on your part. Look at the above picture and notice how on the top two bumps of the heart I let the outer chain pull down a little thinking it would pull back when I worked the border. It did not. My finished piece suffers because of this mistake, as you can see. Be sure not to make it yourself.

The following directions are blown up and broken down into steps. I hope this makes it easier. Again, sorry they are not PDF's.



Step 1





Step 2



Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Step 7

Step 8



I hope that all makes sense. If not let me know - I'll try to answer any questions. Don't end off. You should be at the tip of the heart again                                                                                                                                                                                             

BORDER

 

Add in 6 strands of padded cord. (See Nine Heart Motif for detailed instruction.) Continuing around heart, work sc over pc to fill in each space between the ground work. Pull or loosen pc as you work to get the shape desired. Be sure to keep your work as even as possible on each side. You don't want a lot of close sc's on one side as compared to the other. Join working thread with sl st in 1st sc. End off pc. Continue with working thread only. Ch 1, sc in back loop only of same sc as join and in the next 15 sc. Ch 6, Catch back with sl st in 6th sc from hook. 13 sc on ch 6. Sc in back loop of next 5 sc. Turn work. ( Ch 2, sk sc, dc in next sc) 6 times. Ch 2, sc in 5th sc from ch 6 loop.Turn work. [ 3 sc, Picot (ch 5, sc in last sc), 1 sc] in next 6 ch 2 space. 4 sc in last ch 2 space.* 1 sc in back loops only of next 12 sc. Ch 6, catch back with sl st in 6th sc from hook. 13 sc on ch 6. sc in back loop only of next 5 sc. Turn work. ( ch 2, Sk next sc. dc in next sc ) 6 times.  Ch 2, sc in 5th sc from ch 6 loop. Turn work. 4 sc in 1st ch 2 space. ( 3sc, picot, 1 sc) in next 5 ch 2 spaces. 4 sc in last ch 2 space.* Repeat * to * around until you come to the corner between the 2 humps of the heart, and there's only enough space for another whole scallop. Continue last scallop as usual except in the last ch 2 space omit 4 sc, for 3sc, picot 1sc. Sc in back loops of remaining sc until you reach the center. Work the same amount of sc's just worked to climb out the other side. Work first scallop as usual, except omit the 4 sc in the 1st ch 2 space for 3sc, picot, 1 sc. Then continue * to * around until you reach the point of the heart. On the last scallop worked on the left side, make sure to omit the last 4 sc in ch 2 space, for 3sc, picot, 1 sc. I had 19  scallops on one side and 18 on the other, due to the mistakes in my original pattern and the fact that I worked the pc on the right side a little tighter than on the left. But, you won't have this problem!  To work the final scallop, Sc in back loops only of remaining sc's. Should be around 5. Join with sl st to 1st sc. Sl st in next 3 sc. Ch 6, catch back with sl st in 6th sc from hook (3rd sc from the last sc worked. 3sc, ch 2, 3sc on ch 6. Sl st in next sc and sl st in next 2 sc on 1st scallop. Turn work.Ch 2, dc in 2nd sc of last 3sc on ch 6. Ch 3, tr in ch 2 space. Ch 3, dc in 2nd sc of next 3sc. ch 2, sl st in 2nd sc from hook, on the last scallop, just above the last picot. Turn work. (3sc, picot, 1 sc) in next 2 ch spaces. Sc in tr, picot. (3 sc, picot, 1 sc) in last 2 ch spaces.  End off.

Carefully cut finished piece away from the pattern by clipping the basting stitches from the back side. You will probably need to wash your work -hand wash! Lay it out to dry. Iron by laying face down and laying a damp cloth on top. Good luck!

Until next time.

Butterfly Flake

I had to take a break from the paper heart doily. Trying to figure out the ground was driving me insane. I needed something light and breezy to take my mind off it, clear my head, and hopefully return to it with a fresh perspective. And since it's feeling like spring in my neck of the woods, I just couldn't resist something...well,...Spring-y. Alas, truthfully, Spring is still wishful thinking this time of year, so I kept with the snowflake theme - for honesty's sake. Hence, my Butterfly Flake.

This is easy and fast to work up. I hope you enjoy it. I used # 30 DMC cebelia, and a size 11 steel hook. It was a nice break from the # 100 I have been working with.

Round 1). 18 sc in a magic ring. Join with sl st in first sc and draw ring closed.

Round 2). Ch 1, sc in same sc as join. Ch 3, Sk 2 sc, sc in next sc, around for a total of six ch 3. Join with sc in 1st sc.

Round 3). * Sl st in ch 3 space, Ch 3, tr, 4 dtr, tr, ch 3, sl st all in same ch 3 space.  Sc in next sc.* Repeat * to * around, except join with sl st in 1st sc.

Round 4). *Ch 24, sc in 2nd and 3rd ch from hook. Ch 9, dc in 16th ch of ch 24. Ch 13, sc in 2d and 3rd ch from hook. Ch 7 tr in top of dc. Ch 8, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, sk next ch, sl st in next 5 ch. Ch 8, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sk next ch, sl st in next 5 ch, sl st in top of tr. Ch 10, sc in 2nd and 3rd ch from hook. Ch 10, sl st in bottom of tr and sl st in top of dc. Ch 12, sc in 2nd and 3rd ch from hook. Ch 5, sl st in bottom of dc. Sl st in each remaining st of ch 24. Sl st in top of sc. Ch 14, sc in 2nd ch from hook. Ch 12, sk stitches on petal and sl st in next sc.* Repeat * to * around. End off, weave in ends.

Pin to a cardboard box or dense cork covered in tinfoil (plastic wrap if using glue). I prefer liquid starch, because it does the least amount of damage to fine stitches and thread luster, but you may wish to use glue with this flake, so the spokes won't be limp.

I will return soon with the finishing touches of my paper heart doily. I haven't forgotten, in case your worried about seein it finished...Until next time.

I retain all rights to my patterns and photos, but you may do what ever you wish your finished piece.

Big/Little Hearts in Irish Crochet

Yeah, I know. Valentine's Day was yesterday. I'm a little behind. Maybe more than just a little. I always have big plans that I never quite bring to fruition. Alas, here it is anyway. The next step in my Paper Heart Doily in Irish Crochet doily. Better late than never? I hope you still enjoy this pattern.

I'm sorry I can't get you a better close-up. I'm in need of a macro lens or an extension tube. I hope it's sufficient for your needs. I had a hard time hiding my loose ends. There's just not a lot of room for weaving in. I hope you have a better time of it. Make sure and check my 2 other posts on Irish crochet, there's some good tips and directions there that will help you here if you haven't done this type of crochet before. I'm still using DMC cordonnet 100 for the working thread, DMC cordonnet 10 for the padded cord, and a size 14 hook.

Begin heart by working in rows.

Big Heart

Row 1). With working thread, Ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2 ch. (3 sc)

Row 2). Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in 1st sc, 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc. (5 sc)

Row 3). Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in 1st sc, (sc in next sc) 3 times, 2 sc in last sc. (7 sc)

Row 4). Ch 1, turn. (Sc in next sc) 6 times. 2 sc in last sc. (8 sc)

Row 5). Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in 1st sc, (sc in next sc) 6 times, sl st in last sc. (8 sc)

Row 6). Ch 1, turn. (sc in next sc) 7 times. 2 sc in last sc. (9 sc)

Row 7). Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in 1st sc. (Sc in next sc) 7 times. sl st in last sc. (9 sc)

Row 8). Ch 1, turn. (Sc in next sc) 8 times. 2 sc in last sc. (10 sc)

Row 9). Ch 1, turn. (Sc in next sc) 10 times. (10 sc)

Row 10). Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in 1st sc. (Sc in next sc) 8 times. Sl st in last sc. (10 sc)

Row 11). Turn. Sl st in 1st sc. Ch 1, (sc in next sc) 9 times. (9 sc)

Row 12).  Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in 1st sc. (Sc in next sc) 7 times. Sl st in last sc. (9 sc)

Row 13). Turn. Sl st in 1st sc. Ch 1, (sc in next sc) 8 times. (8 sc)

Row 14).  Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in 1st sc. (Sc in next sc) 6 times. Sl st in last sc. (8 sc)

Row 15). Turn. Sl st in 1st sc. Ch 1 (sc in next sc) 6 times. Sl st in last sc. (6 sc)

Row 16). Turn. Sl st in 1st sc. Ch 1 (sc in next sc) 4 times. Sl st in last sc. (4 sc)

Row 17). Turn Ch 1. (Sc in next sc) 3 times. Sl st in last sc. (3 sc)

End off.

Small Heart

Repeat rows 1-5 of big heart.

Row 6). Turn. Sl st in 1st sc. Ch 1, (sc in next sc) 6 times. 2 sc in last sc. (8 sc)

Row 7). Turn. (Sc in next sc) 8 times. (8 sc)

Row 8). Ch 1, Turn. 2 sc in1st sc. (Sc in next sc) 6 times. Sl st in last sc. (8 sc)

Row 9). Turn. Sl st in 1st sc. (Sc in next sc) 6 times. 2 sc in last sc. (8 sc)

Row 10).Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in 1st sc. (sc in next sc) 6 times. Sl st in last sc. (8 sc)

For Rows 11-13, repeat Rows 15-17 of big heart. End off.

To finish hearts, add working thread and 2 strand of padded cord (1 strand doubled over) w/ sl st in point of heart. Work 5 sc over pc only. Sc over pc and into side of heart. This isn't done in any particular stitch. Just lay the 5 sc length along the edge of heart and sc there. 5 sc on pc again and attach to heart via sc again. Continue in this manner around the heart, being sure to align a stitch in the exact corner of  the heart (between the humps).It's OK if you have to add or delete a stitch or two to have the correct length of sc's on your pc, just be sure to do the same length when climbing out of the opposite side of the corner. With the larger heart, I did 5 sc lengths all the way around. With the smaller heart, I did 4 lengths of 5 sc, 1 length of 2 into corner, sc in corner,1 length of 2 sc, then 4 more lengths of  5. I hope this makes sense, if not let me know and I'll try to clarify.

Until next time.

Mesh Heart Motif in Irish Crochet

Here is the next step in my paper doily heart doily. This was a challenge. It never looked quite right and I ended up working it three different ways before I liked the result. Now I'm in a crunch to finish by Valentine's Day. What this means is you might be stuck with heart patterns even after the 14th, because I still have another idea floating around in my head.

Before we get started I have a great find to share with you. I recently read a great book and this author is one of those to put on your favorite author lists. You know how there are good books and then there are awesome books? This is one of the latter. I read it a lot, and true gems only come along once in awhile.I love it when someone turns me on to a good book, so I'm returning the favor. You'll love this, I promise. It's called 'The Aureate Spectacles' and the best part is, the author is releasing the first five chapters for free, here http://rhizomeseries.blogspot.com . So check it out!

If you are only working this pattern, you may wish to refer to my Nine Heart Motif pattern for some tips and advice on working Irish Crochet. I don't have the patience to repeat them here. In fact my patience leaves so much to be desired,  I'm amazed I like to crochet at all.

I would like to mention a couple more tips I learned:

Irish Crochet is different then other crochet methods. It has a lot more artistic license. You're not counting rows. It isn't as important to get exact numbers of stitches. It's more important for that the end result to look accurate, then actually be accurate. If your work is bunching, or seems to loose, it's OK to add or delete
extra stitches in order for your work to lay flat. In fact, it's usually necessary because crochet work naturally differs from one worker to another. Remember, you're creating art - not a sweater that has to align, or an afghan that needs to be square- crochet outside the box!

Irish Crochet gets it shape from the padded cord. Pull it tighter to curve, looser to lay straight. As you work, continue to pull or relax the padded to cord to get the shape you want. I manipulated the padded cord (pc) constantly to get the result I desired. The pc should never show through your stitches. You may have to adjust your stitches to always cover the cord.

Working thread is DMC Cordonnet # 100. The padded cord is DMC Cordonnet # 10. I used size 14 steel hook.

Step 1). Ch 4, 1 sc in 1st ch, (ch 3, 1 sc in same ch ) twice.

Step 2). Ch 3, 1 sc in 1st ch 3 space, ch 3, 1 sc in same space. ( Ch 3, 1 sc in next ch 3 space, ch 3 i sc in same space ) twice.

Step 3). (Ch 3, 1 sc in next ch 3 space. Ch 3, sc, ch 3 sc in next ch 3 space) 3 times.

Step 4). [(Ch3, sc in next ch 3 space) twice. Ch 3, sc, ch 3, scin next ch 3 space] 3 times.

Step 5). [(Ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space) 3 times. Ch 3, sc, ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space] 3 times.

Step 6). [(Ch 3, sc in  next ch 3 space) 4 times. Ch 3, sc, ch3, sc in next ch 3 space] 3 times.

Step 7). [(Ch 3, sc in  next ch 3 space) 5 times. Ch 3, sc, ch3, sc in next ch 3 space] 3 times.

Step 8). [(Ch 3, sc in  next ch 3 space) 6 times. Ch 3, sc, ch3, sc in next ch 3 space] 3 times.

Step 9). [(Ch 3, sc in  next ch 3 space) 7 times. Ch 3, sc, ch3, sc in next ch 3 space] 3 times.

Step 10).[ (Ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space) 8 times. *Ch 3, sc, ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space.* ( ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space) 4 times. Turn, sc in same ch 3 space. (Ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space) 3 times. Repeat * to *. (Ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space) 9 times.  Repeat * to *.] twice.

Step 11). [(Ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space) 15 times. Turn. Sc in same ch 3 space. ( Ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space) 15 times. Ch 3, sc, ch 3, sc in next ch 3 space.] Twice.

Step 12).  Turn. (Sl st in same ch 3 loop) twice, so that you are in the middle of the ch 3 space at tip of heart. Join 6 strand of pc w/ sl st (see Nine Heart Motif for more details if necessary). Ch 1, 2 sc over pc and in ch 3 sp at point of heart. (Working over pc, 6 sc in next ch 3 space) 15 times. (4 sc in next ch 3 space) twice. (3 sc in next ch 3 space) 4 times. (4 sc in next ch 3 space) twice. (6 sc in next ch 3 space) 15 times. 3 sc in same space as first 2 sc. Join w/ sl st in 1st sc. Drop pc. (see pattern notes)

Step 13). Turn. Work on Right side of work. With working thread only, sl st in back loop of next sc. Ch 3, working in back loops only, tr in same sc. (2 tr in next sc) twice. Tr in next sc around until you reach the corner of the heart. At the group of 4 spaces with 3 sc each, a total of 12 sc, 8 trtog  in 1st sc, sk 4 sc, and tr in last 4 sc. (see patten notes).Continue working 1 tr in each sc around until last 2 sc. (2 tr in next sc) twice. 1 tr in same sc as beginning ch 3 and 1st tr. Join w/ sl st in top of ch 3.

Step 14). Turn. Working on wrong side of work, Pick up pc, and work 1 sc over pc and in each sc around. Join w/ sl st to 1st sc. End off. weave in ends.

Step 15). Continue work on wrong side. Join working thread in 31st sc from tip. (Sc in next sc) twice. Ch 14, sk 14 sc, (sc in next sc) 3 times. (Ch 10. sk 7 sc, sc in next 3 sc) 10 times. Ch 14, sk 14, sc in next sc. Turn work. Join 6 strands of pc with sl st in next sc.

Step 16). working on right side of work, ch 1, 29 sc over pc in ch 14 space. Drop pc. sk sc, sc in middle sc*, sk sc. (pick up pc, 20 sc in next ch 10 space. Drop pc, sc in middle sc) 10 times. 29 sc in next ch 14 space. sc in 1st sc of step 14. End off, Weave in ends. (See pattern notes).

*(When working sc in middle sc, it helped me to actually work sc in the sc underneath from previous step 14.)

Step 17). Re-attach working thread to right side of heart, sl st in last sc of step 16. You are working on right side of work. *(Ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in back loop of next sc) 10 times. * Ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in center sc.[(Ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in back loop of next sc) 6 times. Ch 3, sk 2 sc, sc in middle sc] 10 times. Repeat * to *. End off. Weave in end.

Pattern Notes

8trtog (8 treble together). yo twice,* insert hook in next sc, draw up a loop, (yo, draw through 2 loops on hook) twice*. Repeat * through* 3 more times. Skip 4 sc. Repeat * through * 4 more times. Yo and draw through all loops on hook.

On step 17 you don't have to end off working thread and re-attach to other side. You may turn work and work the rest of the step from the wrong side of the work. It's just my personal preference that the ch 3 loops face the right side up on the right side of work.

On step 12, when you drop pc, and pick it up again on step 14 you leave a small section of unworked pc laying across  step 13 row of trs. It's hidden just fine unless the work is back lit from behind. I thought this motif would look pretty worked in duplicates and tied together to form a swag. In this, or any other similar case, You may wish to end off pc, weave in and re-attach new pc. See picture below.

I can't wait to try Irish crochet, and the wondrous world of padded cord possibilities on a intricate snowflake. But, not today. Until next time.

As always, I retain all rights to my patterns.You can do whatever you like with what you make from my patterns, but you can't sell or reproduce my patterns. I try hard to ensure accuracy, but since I look at my hands when I'm typing and not what I'm typing...please, be forgiving! If there are any mistakes, let me know and I'll get them fixed

Nine Heart Motif in Irish Crochet

I've been reading some old books on Irish Crochet and have been contemplating attempting a project. When I saw this Valentine paper doily, it hit me. I am going to create a doily patterned after a paper doily, and I'm going to do it in Irish Crochet.

To start, I'd like to tell you a little about some of the things I've learned while perusing these old books. If you're like me, then you have no ides where to get materials to try Irish Crochet. I learned that many padded cords work better than one. So, if you can't find #2 cordonnet- no worries! Just use several cords of # 10. I did manage to find some  DMC cordonnet  special in size 10, 30, 40, 50 and 100. So, they still make it. I found it in a Knit and Craft store in Richfield, Utah. I am not sure if that's a chain.

I used matches for mesh. I taped them together with electrical tape. The thread slides off easier. You can place your working thread on the match and wrap the padded cord over top and secure it with a slip stitch before you slip it off the matches.

Make sure and use enough padded cord to finish, you don't want to join. You can save excess for making small motifs and rings.

When adding strands of pc, do so by spooling out half the # of strands needed, but twice as long. Then double over and join via sl st through the bend of the doubled over thread.

Maybe I'm telling you stuff you already know, but this was a learning process for me.

Nine Spoke Heart Motif



I used # 10 DMC cordonnet special for the padded cord (pc), and # 100 DMC cordonnet special for  the working thread. If these are unavailable, use any size 10 and try a # 80 tatting thread. I used a # 14 hook, the smallest I could find.

Wrap 4 matches, 8 times with pc. 54 sc in ring. Join with sl st to 1st sc. End off. Weave in ends.

Ch 2. Wrap 3 matches with pc, 8 times. Place ring next to 2nd ch of ch 2. Sl st in ring and ch 1.15 sc in ring. Pinch ring closed and work 1sc in top 2 loops of 1st sc. 14 more sc on ring. Sc over ch 2 and into 1st sc. 2 sc on ch 2. Sc in next 5 sc of beginning  ring. Trim ends of pc.

*Ch 2, Wrap 3 matches with pc, 8 times. Place ring next to 2nd ch of ch 2, sl st in ring to join and ch 1. 8 sc in ring. Sl st in 7th sc of 14 sc on previous ring/heart. 8 sc in ring. Pinch ring and sc in top 2 loops of 1st sc.**  14 sc in ring. sc in first sc. 2 sc on ring. Sc in next 5 sc of center ring. Trim ends of pc.*

Repeat from * to * 7 times.

On last heart, repeat from * to **, then 6 sc in ring. Sl st in 8th sc of first heart, 8 sc in ring. (It is hard to work these last sc, but if I can, you can.)  Sc in 1st sc. 2 sc on ch 2. Sc in next 4 sc on center ring. Join w/ sl st in first sc of center ring. End off. Weave in ends.

Join working thread with sl st in top loops of 15th sc of any heart. *Ch 12, sl st in top of 15th sc of next heart* around. Join w/ sl st in same loops as first sl st.

Add 6 strands of pc. Working over pc and ch 12, 20 sc in next ch 12 loop. Drop pc, sc in sl st. Pick up pc, 20 sc in next ch 12, around. Finish with sc in sl st between last and first ch 12. End off pc only and weave in.

With working thread, (ch 3, sk 2 sc , sc in back loop only of next sc.) 6 times. Ch 3, sk next 2 sc, sc in next sc (sc between ch 12 loops). Continue around. End off. Weave in ends.

Make 2.

I hope you learned a Little about Irish Crochet. If you have any questions, let me know. Check back soon for the next motif in my paper heart doily. Until Next Time.

This pattern is my own design and I retain any and all rights to it. You may not sell or publish it without my permission. But, you may do what ever you like with what you make from it.



A Rustic Valentine's

Hand Carved Wood Stamps

During a love affair with peppermint candy inspired crafts, I wished I had a peppermint candy stamp. However, I was penniless and stamping tools can be expensive. When you need milk money, you can't hardly justify 10 bucks for a stamp. But, I really wanted one. Desperate times call for desperate measures. I used some wood scraps I had laying around and carved me a peppermint stamp. It's fairly simple to do. You can pick up a four pack of walnut hallow carving tools at any craft store ( wal-mart too), for a few bucks. I all ready had a set on hand. So for nothing, I carved me a home made stamp.

As you can see,  went a little further. I loved the way my stamp looked. I thought it might make a neat decoration as well. I carved this block, it has an image on all six sides, thinking that I was being sooo clever. Until I used it and my fingers came out covered in ink. Cute, maybe, but not such a good idea for stamping.

Here's a sampling of some of the designs I've carved since. I love the texture the wood gives them. I think it takes on a sort of rustic appeal. The thing to remember is that wood is naturally flawed. You have to be able to embrace the flaws as positive characteristics to this form of art.

 Notice how the light bulbs above differ from the bulb pictured in the string of tags. I like the way both look. I just wanted you to know if you don't like the uneven appearance your finished stamp gives, you can adjust for this by pressing the paper down on your stamp instead of stamp on paper. That's why the bulb on the tag has a more solid appearance. You can try padding your work surface with extra papers or brown paper bags. This is what I did when I made the heart wrapping paper. I was then able to press stamp to paper, which was much faster.

I loved the rustic look of my heart stamp so much I just had to add it to some brown paper and jute twine. The brown paper is, of course, just a grocery bag. The jute is from a ball of twine from the hardware store, it's less expensive than a craft store. You can pick up the small white tags at an office supply store. They are way cheap.

Are you ready for some tips on carving wood stamps?

First off, You can use anything for your wood, From wood scraps left over from other projects to purchased blocks from a craft store. The latter runs at less than a buck. As you can see below, I've done both. I've used scraps of 2x4, I cut 2x2s to make the small wood blocks. I even used some scraps that came from my kitchen table that were used to protect it during shipping. My point is, use whatever you have.

Next, Trace your desired pattern on to your wood scrap, remembering to do it in reverse. Be sure to avoid running lines through knots on the wood, as these are difficult to work. Then take the wood working tool with the straight edge and carefully trace your pattern with it, as pictured. Use the flat rounded end to help transverse rounded areas. Cut deeply, about an 1/8th of an inch.

Once you have completely outlined your pattern, start shaving off pieces starting from an edge and working in. Be very careful. Work in small increments to minimize mistakes. I have, on occasion, slipped and shaved off part of my pattern. When possible, I just glued the piece back in place. Sometimes, one little slip can ruin the whole thing. :(. Wood is just that way. Don't give up. Just start over.

You can use the tool with the small curved tip to sort of dig out small places, like the middle of the "o" and the small parts on the "e".  Once you've whittled away all the wood needed to form your pattern,  the only thing left to do is see how it stamps!

My daughter loved how this block looked so much, I ended up carving her one in opposite for a pretty to hang in her room. I like how it turned out.

I just used spray adhesive to add the ribbon.

I hope to one day have enough knowledge to add some pattern PDF's. Until then, I hope there is enough here to help you create your own 'Rustic Valentine's'. Until next time.

Pretty 'Lil Heart

Crochet Hearts



These little crochet hearts work up fast and easy.  I think you card makers and scrap bookers could have a lot of fun with these. I worked these in size 10 and 20 thread with a # 11 hook and the purple I worked in size 30 with a # 14 hook. All the thread is DMC cebelia - I think the pearl luster is a must in this case- but you may use whatever you like. There are no rules here.



This pattern is worked in rounds. To begin, Ch 22. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 9 ch. 3sctog* in next 3 ch. Sc in next  9 ch. Ch 1 and working down back side of ch, sc in next 10 ch. 3sc in next ch, sc in next 10 ch. Ch 2, sc in next 8 sc. 3sctog in next 3 sc. Sc in next 8 sc. Ch 2, sc in next 12 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc. Ch 3, sc in next 7 sc, 3sctog in next 3 sc, sc in next 7 sc. Ch 3, sc in next 13 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 13 sc. Ch 4, sc in next 6 sc, 3sctog in next 3 sc, sc in next 6 sc. Ch 4, sc in next 14 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 14 sc. Sl st in next sc. End off. Weave in ends.

* 3sctog: Insert hook in 1st st, draw up a loop, yo, draw through 1 loop on hook. Insert hook in next st, draw up a loop, yo, draw through 1 loop on hook. Insert hook in last st, draw up a loop, yo, draw through 1 loop on hook. yo, draw through all 4 loops on hook.

Using liquid starch, pin out your heart on tinfoil wrapped cardboard. Just add enough starch to wet your heart. You don't want an excess building up and discoloring your beautiful heart.

Heart Flower

To make a heart flower, crochet 4 hearts in the same color. Using whatever color of green you desire, measure how long you want your stem and chain however many chains you need to reach this length, plus three. I chained 75, then starting in 3rd ch from hook, I did 1 dc in each chain across for a total of 72 dc. You can shape the stem any ehich way when you pin it out to stiffen it. For the leaf, I used my very own hand carved wooden stamp. My next post will be all about  how to hand carve your very own stamps. This gives you a reason to check back,  (I hope) !                                                                                                                                                                         

As always. my free patterns are yours to do with as you wish, except you my not sell my patterns.
Until next time.









Lattice Heart

Here  are the crocheted hearts I promised. Today I'm publishing the free pattern for "lattice Heart".  The others pictured will follow shortly. I'm not a very good card maker. I have no illusions of grandeur. I just wanted to show the more talented card makers out there a vague idea of what they could make with my crochet heart patterns.


Lattice Heart

 I used size 10 DMC cebelia and a number 11 steel crochet hook, but this works up nice with size 20 thread too. First, you need to cut off a length of thread from the ball for a padded cord (pc) that is worked around the border. I spooled out about a yard, doubled over the thread and spooled out another yard. I then took the 2 loose ends and tied them around a Popsicle stick (or a pencil). Then I wound both threads around until I had the doubled over end on top. Set aside and save for later.

This pattern is worked in rows.

Row 1. Ch 8, sc in 1st ch, ch 5, tr in same sc, turn. (Ch 5, tr count as ch 8 through out pattern.)

Row 2. Ch 8, sc in same space. Ch 6, sc, ch 5, tr in next ch 8 space. Turn.

Row 3. Ch 8, sc in same space. Ch 6, sc in next ch 6 space. Ch 6, sc, ch 5, tr in next ch 8 space. Turn.

Row 4. Ch 8, sc in same ch 8 space. (Ch 6, sc in next ch 6 space) twice. Ch 6, sc, ch 5, tr in next ch 8  space. Turn.

Row 5. Ch 8, sc in same ch 8 space. (Ch 6, sc in next ch 6 space) 3 times. Ch 6, sc, ch 5, tr in next ch 8 space. Turn.

Row 6. Ch 8, sc in same ch 8 space. (Ch 6, sc in next ch 6 space) 4 times. Ch 6, sc, ch 5, tr in next ch 8 space. Turn.

Row 7. Ch 8, sc in same ch 8 space. (Ch 6, sc in next ch 6 space) 5 times. Ch 6, sc, ch 5, tr in next ch 8 space. Turn.

Row 8. Ch 8, sc in same ch 8 space. (Ch 6, sc in next ch 6 space) 2 times. Ch 6, sc, sl st in next ch 6 space. Sl st in next sc. Sl st, sc in next ch 6 space. (Ch 6, sc in next ch 6 space) 2 times. Ch 6, sc, ch 5, tr in next ch 8 space. Turn.

Row 9. Sl st, sc in ch  8 sp. (Ch 6, sc in next ch 6 space) 3 times. Turn

Row 10. Sl st, sc in ch 6 space. (Ch 6, sc in next ch 6 space) twice. Turn

Row 11. Sl st, sc in ch 6 space. Ch 8 sc in next ch 6 sp.

End Off. Join thread w/ sl st in 5th ch 6 space of row 8. Sc in same space. (Ch 6, sc in next ch 6 sp) twice. Ch 6 sc in next ch 8 sp. Repeat Rows 10 and 11, but don't end off.

Border/Edging: sl st through bend of doubled over pc (padded cord) thread. 2 Sc over both pc strands, and in same ch sp on heart.Working counter clockwise around heart and over padded cord, make as follows: sc in next tr. sc, picot, sc in next ch space. (Picot is, ch 3 sl st in top of sc ). Sc in next tr. * 2 sc, picot, 1 sc in next ch sp. Sc in next tr.*  Repeat from * to * 7 times. Sc, hdc, Picot, hdc in next ch sp. Dc, tr, picot, dc in next sc (tip of heart). Hdc, picot, hdc, sc in next ch sp. Sc in next tr. (Sc, picot, 2 sc in net ch sp, sc in next tr) 7 times. Sc, picot sc in next ch sp. Sc in next sc. 2 sc in next ch sp.1 sc, picot in next sc. (4 sc, picot) 3 times in ch 8 space. Sc in next sc. 2 sc in next space. Sc, picot in next sc. Sc in next ch sp, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next ch sp. Sk next sc. 3sctog ( insert hook in ch sp, draw up a loop. Yo and draw through 1 loop on hook. Insert hook in next sl st. Draw up a loop. Yo and draw through 1 loop on hook. Insert hook in next ch sp. Yo and draw through 1 loop on hook. Yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook) in next ch sp, in middle sl st, and in next ch sp. Sk next sc, 2 sc in next ch sp. sc, picot in next sc. Sc in next ch sp, sc in net sc. 2 sc in next s. sc, picot in next sc. (4 sc, picot) 3 times. Sc in next sc. Join w/ sl st in first sc.

Here's a close up of the finished Lattice Heart. I pinned mine out on cardboard covered in tinfoil and starched it lightly with liquid starch. It doesn't need to be real stiff if your using it for card making. I hope you will share some of your own ideas you come up wit me. I look forward to it. Until next time.

Valentine Flake

Valentine Flake

Here it is. The 3rd flake in my series of heart inspired snowflakes. I won't call it my final flake. Because I know myself. I love hearts. I love snowflakes. There will be another. I never really truly saw myself this way. Being a coal miner by trade, my softer side was a little inhibited- OK, a lot inhibited. I'd call myself a tom boy even. When I was girl, my aunt tried to teach me to crochet with no success. Then a little over 4 years ago my young daughter received a crochet instruction book for her birthday. She was quit determined to learn, and then she turned to me for help with the stitches. I was mortified. I felt so guilty that my sweet girl had a coal miner for a mom. It wasn't her fault I had issues with 'girly' stuff. So, for the first time ever, I swallowed the tom boy's pride and really tried. I spent 24 hours working through the basic stitches so I could show her. I got her working on her merry way, and much to my surprise, I didn't want to put my daughter's hook down. I was so ashamed going into the 5 and dime the next day to buy my own hook. I didn't have anymore excuse to crochet. To my extreme embarrassment, I liked it... OK, I loved it! I couldn't stop. It became an obsession. It's how I relax. It was amazing how quickly the stress and exhaustion of mining would wash away as I crocheted those tiny stitches. Once I couldn't hide my girly side anymore, the flood gates opened. It wasn't long before my passion for hearts was born. And snowflakes. And stars.(yes, stars too.) I love creating beautiful things- even if their only purpose is beauty. I love sharing those things with you. (Even though I type like a coal miner, and my computer stinks.) I take pride hearing how much you enjoy my creations. Speaking of creations, and sharing them, I should get back to it.

I originally made this with size 12 pearl cotton. It worked up tiny and almost fragile looking. It was pretty. The glue I used then destroyed it, however. But if you get adventurous you should try it. This one was made with size 20 burgundy and white dmc cebelia.

1. With white, make a magic ring, (3 sc, ch 3) 5 times. Ch 3, sl st in first sc to join.
2. Sc in next sc, * ch 15, sl st in 3rd ch from hook (couns as ch 2 space) and in next 12 ch. Ch 1, sk next sc, sc, hdc, dc, ch 3, dc, hdc, sc in next ch 3 loop. Ch 1, sk next sc,sc in next sc. Repeat from * to *, around. Join w/ sl st in first sc. End off and weave in ends.
3. With Burgundy, Join w/ sl st to any ch 3 space. Begin working in rows.  

                  Row 1: Ch 1, sc in ch 3 loop. Ch 2, turn. (turning ch 2 counts as 1st sc in next row.)

Row 2: 2 sc in sc. ( 3 sc in row). Ch 3, turn. (counts as 1st dc in next row.)              

Row 3: Dcin same sc as ch 3, dc in next sc, 2 dc in last sc. (5 dc in row.) Ch 2, turn.

  Row 4: 1 sc in same dc as ch 2. (Sc in next dc) 3 times, 2 sc in last dc. (7 sc in row.)  

Ch 3, turn.                                                                                         

Row 5: 1 dc in same sc as ch 3, (1dc in next sc) twice, sc in next dc, (1 dc in next sc)

twice. 2 dc in last sc. ( 8 dc, 1sc). Ch 2, turn.                                      

Row 6:  Sk first dc, (sc in next dc) 3 times, sl st in center sc, (sc in next dc) 4 times.    

(8 sc, 1 sl st). Ch 2, turn.                                                                      

Row 7: Sk first sc, dc in next sc, hdc in next sc, sc in next sc, sl st in center sl st, sc in  

next sc, hdc in next sc, dc in next sc, sc in last sc. End off. weave in ends.

  Repeat in each ch 3 space around.                                                                                                             

   4. W/ white, join w/ sl st in ch 2 space of round 3 (top of ch 15). * Ch 6, sl st in                                      

        back loop of end sc on row 6  on right side of heart. Ch 10, dc in 3rd ch from hook,  hdc in next ch,   ch 2, sl st in next ch (6th ch of ch 10). Ch 7, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook, ch 3, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook. Ch 1, sc in ch 4 of previous ch 7, sl st in next 3 ch. Ch 5, dc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, ch 2, sl st in next ch (5th ch of ch 5). Sl st in 5th ch of ch 10. Ch 5, sl st in back loop of sc on row 6 on left side of same heart. Ch 6, sc in next ch 2 space. Ch 4, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook. Ch 3, 2 dc in 3rd ch from hook. Ch 1, sc in last ch of previous ch 4. Sl st in top of sc.* Repeat from * to * around. End off. Weave in ends.

So sorry about the above goof. I fixed it the best I could. Like I said, I can't type. Here is a close up of Valentine Flake, in case you need it.

            

         Also, as a preview to my next upcoming post, and since I used this particular snowflake, I wanted to share this valentine card idea with you.    

                 

                                                    

Heart Flake

Heart Flake

Here is the second of my valentine themed snowflake pattern. I hope you like it as much as I do. This is the 2nd of 3 free crochet patterns. I am having a lot of fun working on crafts for Valentine's Day. Sure beats going underground, but the moneys not as good! I'm looking forward to sharing some of the creations formulating in The Laboratory.  I am working on some crochet heart patterns for card making, as well as some hand carved wooden stamps. All of which I plan to share. But, that's another day...Today is my Heart Flake pattern. I used size 30 DMC cebelia, I love the fine, pearl cotton threads. I used a size 14 steel hook. I think the smaller the thread and hook the more delicate and lace like your snowflake appears. But, use what you like. It doesn't matter. There is no gauge or tension to worry about. If you use size 10 thread you'll end up with larger snowflakes, and that's o.k. Just have fun!

Patter stitch guide

double treble (dtr): yo 3 times, insert hook in indicated stitch, draw up a loop, (yo draw through 2 loops on hook) 4 times.

double single crochet:  Insert hook in indicated st, draw up a loop, yo draw through 1 loop on hook, yo, insert hook in same st, draw up a loop, yo, draw through 1 loop on hook, yo, draw through all 4 loops on hook.

Long Treble (ltr); Wrap yarn around hook 5 times. insert hook in ch 3 space, draw up a loop, (yo, draw through 2 lops on hook) 5 times.

4 treble together (4trtog):  yo twice, insert hook in 4th ch from hook, draw up a loop, (yo, draw through 2 loops on hook,) twice,  [yo twice, insert hook in next ch, draw up a loop, (yo draw through 2 loops on hook) 2 times,] 3 times, yo, draw through all 5 loops on hook.

4 double crochet together (4dctog):  yo, insert hook in 3rd ch from hook, draw up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook, (yo, insert hook in next ch, draw up a loop, yo draw through 2 loops on hook) 3 times, yo, draw through all 5 loops on hook.

1. In magic ring, 6 sc, join / sl st in first sc.
2. Ch 14 (counts as dtr and ch 9), ch 9, dtr in next sc, around. Join w/ sl st in 5th ch of beginning ch 14.
3. Sl st into ch 9 space. 4 dsc, ch 3, 4 dsc in each ch 9 space around. Do not join.
4. *Ch 2, sc in 1st ch from hook. Ch 9, 4trtog in 4th, 5th, 6th and 7th ch from hook. Ch 8, 4dctog in 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th ch from hook. Ch 7, sc in 5th ch from hook. Ch 6, sl st in sc. Ch 4 sl st in sc. Sl st in last 2 ch of ch 7. Sl st in top of 4dctog, ch 3, 4 dc in 3rd ch from hook. Sl st in 3rd ch of ch 8 (same ch as bottom of 4dctog), and in next 2 ch. Sl st in top of 4trtog. Ch 4, 4 tr in in 4th ch from hook. Sl st in 3rd ch of ch 9 (same ch as bottom of 4trtog), and in next 2 ch. Ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook. Sl st in next dsc. Ch 11, sk next 3 dsc, ltr in ch 3 space, ch 11, sk next 3 dsc, sl st in next dsc*. Repeat from * to* around. Join w/ sl st in beginning sc. End off. When  I weave in ends, I sew the 1st 2 "ch 2, sc in 2nd ch" together, so they don't pull apart and it gives a more uniform look.

I also like to use #12 pearl cotton thread. It  comes in such a variety of color and works up well with #11 hook (I even used # 14, in this instance).

Imagine a whole flurry of  heart flakes in all sorts of pastel colors, fluttering in a door jam or window seal. I think I may have to work that up and share a photo with you. I like to pin my snowflakes out on dense cork board (or a tinfoil covered cardboard box), and stiffen using liquid starch. Especially when using the pearl cottons as it allows the luster of the thread to show better than with glue. But if glue is all you have on hand, by all means use glue. I would dilute it a little first, however.

This pattern may not be sold, but you can do whatever else you so desire. And whatever you make from it is yours to do with what you wish.

Until next time.

Keys to My Heart Flake

Keys to My Heart Flake

I have a passion for all things hearts, and another love for snowflakes. It was only a matter of time before I would think to combine two of my favorite things.This one has two different variations, depending on how you pin it when you starch the snowflake. So, here it is, as promised. The first of Three valentine themed free snowflake patterns. My crochet patterns are free to do with as you please with one exception: you may not sell my pattern.

Pattern Stitch Guide:

Long Treble (ltr): yo 6 times, draw up a loop in indicated st. (yo and draw through 2 loops on hook) 7   times.

4 double crochet together (4 dc tog): *yo, draw up a loop in bottom 2 loops of hdc, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook* (yo,draw up a loop in bottom of next dc, yo draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. repeat from * to * yo draw through all 5 loops on hook.

3 double crochet together (3 dc tog):  yo. draw up a loop in last 4dctog, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, yo over and draw up a loop in next dc, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook. yo and draw up a loop in next 4dctog, yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook.

red flake                                                                                            purple flake

Size 20 DMC cebelia                                                          size 10 crochet thread

# 14 steel hook                                                                               #11 steel hook

use whatever you want.                                                                                        

1. Make a magic ring. Ch 9 (counts as ltr and ch 3), (ltr in magic ring, ch 3) 10 more times. Join with sl st in 6th ch of beginning ch 9. Pull magic ring closed.
2. * sl st into ch 3 sp, on wrong side of ch 3 sp hdc,dc,dc,hdc,sl st. (You may have to slide stitches around ch 3 sp w/ your fingers). Sl st in ltr (helps tack stiches to wrong side).* Repeat from * to * 5 times. Join w/ sl st in ltr.
3. Ch 7 (counts as dc and chain 4), *4dctog (see pattern guide), dc in ltr (not in sl st on top), 4 dctog, ch 4, dc in next ltr, ch 4* repeat fm * to * 5 more times. Join w/ sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch 7.
4. Ch 14 (counts as dc and ch 10), * 3dctog (see pattern guide), ch 7, dc in dc, ch 7, * repeat from *to* 5 times. Join w/ sl st in 3rd ch of beginning ch 10.
5. Ch 14 (counts as tr and ch 10), ltr ( yo 5 times, not 6 throughout round) in next 3dctog, *[ ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch. Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch. Ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 2 sc in next ch of ch 5, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch. Ch 2, sl st in top of dc, sl st down back side of key (I did 7 sl st, but you should do whatever looks even to keep it from bunching). sl st in 2 remaining chs from ch 7, sl st in top of ltr]. Ch 10, tr in next dc, ch 10, ltr (yo 5 times) in next 3dctog.* Repeat from * to * 5 times. repeat from [ to ] once. Ch 10, sl st in 4th ch of beginning ch 14. End off and weave in ends.

When pinning out your snowflake to stiffen it, you may pin it a little different, if you prefer. Like Thus:

I couldn't decide which I liked more, so I'll let you decide. See the difference below:

It's not much, but it's there. Pin out your snowflake,as desired, to dense cork board or a cardboard box wrapped in tinfoil or plastic. After you have pinned out your flake, apply your stiffener with a paint brush or sponge. I prefer bottled starch over glue. It allows you to see the fine stitches and the beautiful luster of the pearl cotton threads that I love so much to use. Just add a little at a time and allow the thread to soak it up. You only need enough to wet the thread. This particular snowflake has a tendency for excess starch to sit on top (which dries crusty, icky!). If your snowflake turns out ugly, because of excessive starch, Just rinse out with warm water and repin. Restarch if necessary. Two light coats are far superior than one heavy starching. I often add another coat after the first dries.

I hope you enjoyed this free crochet snowflake pattern. Remember, I have 2 more heart flakes on the way, so if you liked this one, check back soon.

Debut Flake

Hello. I'm an unemployed coal miner with a ton of time on my hands-and not a lot of money. In order to keep busy and/or sane, I have really developed my creative side. I spend a large portion of my idle time in my back room that my mom recently dubbed "The Laboratory". I have wanted to share my creations for some time and have finally braved the woes of my windows vista inhibited computer to bring to life my first contribution.

This is my "debut flake", a first appearance. I hope you like it. The pattern is free, all I ask is that you don't sell the pattern.

                                                      Debut Flake                                    

size 30 ( I used DMC cebelia)

#14 steel hook

Round 1. 6 sc in a magic ring. Join in 1st sc w/ sl st.

Round 2. ch 14 (counts as dtr and ch 9) in same sc as join. [ch 9, dtr in next sc] 4 times. Ch 9, sl st in 5th ch of beginning ch 14.

Round 3. Ch 5 (counts as dtr). *dtr in next ch, tr in next ch, dc in nect ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in next ch, dtr in next ch* dtr in next dtr** . Repeat from * to **around, ending at last *. Sl st in top of beginning ch 5.

Round 4. Ch 1, 2 sc in same st as join. *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc*. Repeat from * to *  around. Join w/ sl st in first sc.

Round 5. Sl st in next 8 st. (you want to be in the st above the hdc on the left side of the sc from round 3). *ch 21, sk the next 12 sc, sl st in next 3 sc*. Repeat from * to * 5 times, ending with 1 sl st  in next sc.(middle sl st is directly above sc from round 3). No join.

Round 6. Sl st in next in next sc, ch 1 sc in same st. * Ch 12, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in next 7 ch. Ch 10, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in next 6 ch. Ch 9, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in next 5 ch. Ch 21, sl st in 1st ch. Ch 7 sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in next 5 ch. Sl st 2 remaining ch of ch 9. Ch 8 sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in next 6 ch. Sl st in remaining 3 ch of ch 10. Ch 9, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in next 7 ch. Sl st in remaining 4 ch of ch 12. Sl st in top of sc.* Sl st in chain 21 space. Ch 1, sc in same space. 9 sc in same space, ** sc into 11th ch of ch 21. Ch 13, sl st in 1st ch. Sc in 11th ch. 10 sc in same ch 21 space. Sc in middle sl st.**[ Repeat from * to *,  in next ch 21 sp do 10 sc, repeat from** to **] 5 times. Join w/ sl st to first sc. End off. Weave in ends.

To Finish, pin snowflake onto dense cork board or  a cardboard box covered with tinfoil or plastic wrap. The big diamonds are pinned in 5th, 10th, and 15th ch; while the small diamonds are pinned in the 3rd, 6th and 9th chs. For starching I like to use liquid starch. The stitches and luster of your thread are more visible this way. You may use glue or fabric stiffener if desired. I usually paint my stiffener on with a brush after my snowflake is pinned. However you may dip your snowflake in a plastic Ziploc with your preferred stiffener, and after blotting off excess with a paper towel, pin out your snowflake.

I hope you enjoyed my free crochet snow flake pattern. Check back because there are more free patterns to follow. Including some valentine flakes, and other projects too- not just snowflakes. Be sure to let me know if there are issues or you need any help with my pattern.